Finally in Thurso

It was a quick drive up from Edinburgh (~5-1/2 hours). The the second half of the drive runs along the North Sea often rising high above sea level with curvy roads that reminded me of Big Sur (but with rounded green scenery). The road finally turns east going up and over the moor to Thurso. Thurso is actually a small city but with an unusually small downtown. What I haven't seen mentioned yet is the fact that even this early in the year it stays light till nearly 10PM... and quite honestly it's not that cold (well at least today and it's only getting dark now).

I'm looking forward to getting on the water tomorrow and promise some photos. We have finalized our plans after studying the tide tables and have decided to start on the North Sea side at Skirza and run around Duncansby Head along the coastline pulling out at John O'Groats. A short, but I am told, spectacular paddle. Now that we have two vehicles a shuttle is possible. This will get us off the water early so Jen can get herself psyched up for her testing starting the next morning.

Regards - Thom

Thom arrives!

A beautiful sunny day heralded Thom's arrival in Thurso today. Jake and I caught up with him at about 6:30pm after a fantastic day on the water. We had a bit of a play in a tidal race, then circumnavigated Stroma. A strong current stopped us dead in our tracks heading north along the island so we stopped for lunch by an ancient cemetary. There was a small building in the cemetary - empty now, but maybe once a tomb? The date carved into a corner stone was 1677. I hope to download some kayaking photos tomorrow.
Jen

Departing Edinburgh for Thurso

Having finished my conditioning late last night here in Edinburgh with a wee dram of 28 year old Craggenmore I'm off to Thurso thoroughly insulated from the cold. Jen and Jake's postings are just too exciting to resist getting up there and on the water.

I too have checked the forecast for the Thurso area and the weather is predicted to be sunny with mild winds for Friday, similar with a few clouds on Saturday, and conditions building a bit on Sunday with heavy fog (they call it gaar - I think) possible. Generally it appears a high pressure area is moving across bringing clearer weather but cooler air temperatures (supposed to be 0 degrees tonight, brrr - think warm thoughts for Jen and Jake in their van). If you are interested, the best weather site I have found is the British Meteorological Office at

http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/he/thurso_forecast_weather.html

Here is a swell and surf report. As you can see the swell is currently 8 feet and dropping off for the weekend. Note the wind direction is shifting as well... seems almost similar to our santa anna inversions in San Diego (without the heat) and wind speed is generally higher than the corresponding land wind speed report (as Jen indicated in a post earlier this week).

http://magicseaweed.com/Thurso-Surf-Report/47/

My Scottish friends are a bit concerned with the adventure but I have assured them that Jen and Jake will bring me back and I will see them once again and no worse for wear the following weekend. They keep asking if I am aware of the water conditions up north and I nod my head and take another sip of scotch. I do have the camera cable that Jen is seeking so you should get some 'on the water' pictures from her by this evening or Friday.

Regards - Thom

Another note from Jake

Ahhh. Jen finally took a break from the computer so now I get a chance to say hello. We're once again hanging out at the Royal Bar in Thurso having a couple drinks while I do some chart work and Jen checks on weather (which is looking better for the weekend) and e-mails from home. The bar happens to be the headquarters for a big surf contest that's in town so it's been a bit crowded but it's interesting to hear accents from all over the world.

Yesterday saw our second day on the water. We got a bit of a late start due to srong winds in the morning and by the time we started to approach Duncansby Head (the start of our planned island crossing) we realized that we'd spent a little too much time exploring the amazing sea caves and slot canyons we found along the way and had missed the good tide window we'd planned. So we ended up turning back with plans to hustle over to check out another spot. We never did make it back on the water. When we arrived back at the put-in the gentleman that lives in the house right there invited us in for sardine sandwiches and coffee. We were in a hurry (and honestly a little leery of sardine sandwiches) but we knew we'd be crazy to pass up a chance to experience real Scottish hospitality so we went inside. We ended up having a nice chat with Ronnie who wouldn't let us stop eating until we'd finished an entire platter of sandwiches he'd set out.

Today we had big plans to do the crossing we'd passed up on yesterday but when we woke to puring rain and winds rocking the van we already knew it was a no-go. We did end up driving over to a different spot Jen wanted to check out that thankfully gave us some protection from the wind. Once again the coastline was absolutely beautiful and we entertained ourselves on rock garden pourovers and slots while grazing sheep looked on and baaed their approval from the cliff tops high above. We didn't completely escape the wind and had to turn back a few miles shy of our destination due to the fact that the 20 knot plus winds were making it just no fun. There was a point where I watched waves breaking and washing up on a huge sloped rock. The little rivulets of water that normally flow back into the ocean as the wave subsides never really made it. Instead the water droplets were picked up by the wind and hurled up and over the far side of the rock in a misty spray. Pretty impressive.

The weather looks good for tomorrow so with any luck we'll have reports about our Stroma crossing and circumnavigation.

See you later,

Jake

From Jen again

I am so glad to know that I'm not the only one who immediately thinks about strippers when I hear the word "pasties"! I almost said something, but I was afraid people would think I'm strange. Just so you know, the food item is not pronounced the same as the stripper thing....the "a" is pronounced like "cat". Nevertheless, I have a hard time stiffling a giggle every time Jake talks about his mom's great pasties (sorry Lynn!).

Ok, enough of that. A steady rain and howling winds kept us in our snug bed late this morning. Our planned trip wasn't going to work out so well with 25 kts of wind, so we drove down the coast to try something else and found more magical caves and rock gardens and sea stacks. Hobbits poked their heads out from Hobbit holes and sea monsters swam past. I'll be able to download some photos off my camera when Thom arrives tomorrow, I hope. Until then, we're stuck with land photos.

From Jen

We had a short day on the water today but it was stunning! All the best European cathedrals are right on the water and very few are lucky enough to see them. I hope some of my photos turn out, but I know they won’t be able to reveal the magnitude of the caves and slots we paddled through today. The most impressive was a set of three closely spaced, parallel passageways straight into vertical cliffs for 100 yards. The first passageway was open to the sky and as wide as road. The next was roofed and so narrow you couldn’t paddle. The third was also roofed and big enough to drive a freight train through. Just stunning! Many other caves and passageways riddled this stretch of coast and we were thoroughly distracted from our goal of reaching Stroma and rounding her north end before the tide turned. When it became clear we wouldn’t make it, we turned back to try a different stretch of coast. We’d parked at the top of a slipway next to a house and the owner had chatted with us before we left. Everyone wants to be sure we know that Pentland Firth is the most dangerous and treacherous piece of water in the UK (maybe the world!). Anyway, Ronny invited us in for coffee and sardine sandwiches for lunch. We got a history lesson and heard tales from the days of the Vikings, pirates, and Inuits washed up in their kayaks. His house was once occupied by a seaman who used to pilot ships through the treacherous Firth. If the weather was fair enough, the pilot would be dropped off on the other side - about 30 miles - to walk home. If the weather was poor, he'd be stuck on board until the ship reached America where he'd work until he found passage back. The sandwiches were much yummier than they sound (or maybe we were just hungry).

Jake shopped this afternoon while I napped. He returned with the “pasties” he’s been hoping to find. Apparently his mom used to make these things – bread dough stuffed with meat, potatoes, and cabbage - and he’s been hoping to try a traditional pasty here, where the recipe originated. We tried one the other day, but it wasn’t “authentic” in Jake’s view. “How will you know when you get an authentic one?” I ask. “Because it’ll be like my mom’s.” These turned out to be close enough.

We walked around town which I thought would take 20 minutes and took about 8. We’re hanging out in the local Pubs in the evening with emails and navigation homework. I’m adapting to this lifestyle pretty quickly. Cheers!

A Post From Thom

Now your most recent posting describes the Scotland I have come to know and love. For just a bit I thought maybe you two had taken the wrong turn and ended in Fiji!

Your description of the wind and waves was perfect. It's not as though the wave tops are cresting your bow and flying in your face but rather they are separated from the water surface itself and have a life and direction of their own (always in your face). After reading that post I did go out of my way to pick up that extra storm cag and squeeze it in the suitcase.

I have successfully adjusted my plans to get up to Thurso late Thursday afternoon. It meant sacrificing the Royal Gardens walkabout so I could move up my scotch conditioning dinner to Wednesday night. Sometimes one has to sacrifice! I am hoping the weather permits getting on the water Friday to help prepare for the weekend.

Well I'm off to the airport and will see you on your side of the 'pond' in a few days.

Regards - Thom

p.s. I stopped by the shop and Eddie sends his love. He's missing you and seemed to be moping about and getting a bit fatter in your absence (is that possible?). When I suggested exercise he simply rolled over to get his tummy scratched.